You have absolutely no idea what you’re talking about

This could be a stupid answer but don't you just keep it open with an empty can of soup, paint stir stick or ordinary household items?

Usually, awning windows open outward, not inward. Somewhat odd thing you have there but I have seen it before.

More pictures.

Thanks so much for the help!

https://imgur.com/a/F5V7arA

Why does the inspector say this must lock open? It can’t be an emergency escape and rescue opening (commonly referred to as egress window), as it’s too high off the ground and not tall enough. Just curious what specific code issue he’s concerned about. Also, did the window open before tue ceiling was drywalled? If so, you might want to talk to whoever finished the basement, not the original builder. Also, if they used 1/4-in. drywall on your ceiling as you say, that’s highly unusual.

It only drips when filling? Cold or hot water? It must be past the water valve in the washer.

No worries

Do you have a picture of one open as far as it goes?

Is the latch part of the hinge or is there a separate traveler arm that is supposed to hold it open?

https://imgur.com/a/Vj3NyJy

https://imgur.com/a/F5V7arA

https://imgur.com/a/Vj3NyJy

Sorry.

https://imgur.com/a/Vj3NyJy

We do not have an ERV/HRV. Half of the house is pretty old and drafty, so it probably wouldn’t be critical immediately. But probably worth looking into.

Pics?

Picture?

You're welcome!

Realistically, you should add a sub panel.

Otherwise, you cannot replace AFCI/GFCI breakers with non AFCI/GFCI tandems. I'm not even sure Eaton makes a tandem with AFCI/GFCI capabilities.

That said, I'm honestly surprised that having a separate breaker for your smoke alarms passed inspection. They should go on a common circuit so that way if the circuit trips, you know that your smokies aren't functional. A main lighting circuit is common. So, you could free up one space there if there isn't anything else of concern on that circuit.

You could also combine two bedrooms. Not sure if the entire bedroom (outlets and lighting) is on one circuit or what, but it's odd to have them separated that way. Are the bathrooms combined with the bedrooms completely? Or just the lights? Code doesn't allow for bathroom outlets to share with any other fixtures other than other bathrooms, and even then it is limited to counter top outlets only. Only way bathroom lights and counter top outlets can be on the same circuit is if that bathroom is the only thing on that circuit.

Additionally, you could combine the dishwasher and disposal into one circuit. I'm not a fan of it but as long as it's a 20A circuit, it's allowed.

If you decided to combine anything, you should really understand load balancing before doing so. Adding 60A to one side may or may not be a good idea.

Word. you might want to go the sub panel route. Might be beneficial to hire an electrician

Thank you. I’ll heed your advice and seek an electrician to give me a straight answer to my needs. As much as I love DIYing stuff, this might be something I’ll chalk up to beyond my abilities.

I had a home that was insulated with a nonrigid foam. It was wonderful in the attic during all seasons. The attic becomes basically part of the interior of the home with comparable temperatures. No vents in the attic are necessary, but the HVAC system needs better humidity control and fresh air exchanger.

41 amps between two AC units and the rest of your house? Highly doubt thats correct. Its also the inrush current that you have to consider. Your AC units can draw 5 to 7 times their rated amperage on startup. Add that with your charger and everything else in the house and you can trip your main.

Do not do this. Please heed the advice of the other commenters and their reasons explained.

Ignoring everyone else and following this poor advice is confirmation bias.

Don't do it stupid. Do it right.

You'll likely need to upgrade your panel and service to your house. Adding a 60amp circuit on an already full panel is going to probably put you over the main circuit breaker limit, guessing you have 200 amp service.

You have 2 air conditioners. Your entire house lighting and outlets. Utilities (washer, dryer, dishwasher).

Adding a 60 amp circuit is probably going to be too much.

Hire an electrician to make sure you dont overload your panel an risk tripping the main breaker. You dont want to trip your circuit breakers and bust your 200 amp main. That'll be an expensive fix.

You’ve gotten a lot of advice, so this might get drowned out: you cannot replace AFCI or GFCI breakers with tandem ones that are not AF/GF. You have 4 single pole non-AF/GF breakers throughout the panel that you can replace with tandems. Since they are not next to each other it would require you to move around many breakers in order to get a 2 pole space. Not a big deal, but it will be the last circuit you ever add. Your best bet is to install a sub panel right next to your main panel, if you have room on the wall.

Ok thanks for your input! This seems to be the conclusion I am reaching as well.

I doubt they’ve ever even pulled much over 100A. If they have a smart meter they can get their max load values from the power company.

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Dimmers create noise because their output is not a sine wave. They have harmonics which extend to the hundreds of even thousands of Hz. This high frequency causes slight vibration in the coils used by thermal/magnetic circuit breakers. As long as it is faint I wouldn't worry about it.