Jigsaw blades are designed to make curved cuts. Getting a straight cut out of one is like trying to use a hose as a straightedge, it's just the wrong tool for the job.

Wow someone didn't have a plan at all there.

Those vents should be sealed up, a long with any other penetrationns up there.

However the roofing lifespan may suffer from a hot roof.

Back to someone not having a plan

Do you have an ERV/HRV?

If you want a tight envelope you can cause mold issues. An audit by energy company may be worth it.

They’re only $60 a piece for 15 amp single pole, not crazy expensive for what they are

I mean, technically you can replace them with regular breakers. Just don't get your house inspected if you're doing it lol.

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I wish people would stop saying attics or buildings need to breathe - it’s just not true. People need to breathe; building assemblies made of materials that can rot need to stay dry. One way to keep them dry is to give them space to dry into, and that is often achieved by venting. However, all vents need to be outboard of insulation (on the side that’s cold in winter). Any insulation on the outside of a vent is doing as much good for a house as it would do sitting on a rack at the lumber yard.

Attic vents are not for cooling; they are for venting moisture out of an attic space. Venting has roughly zero effect on the temperature inside an attic or on the temperature of a roof deck.

Old-timers (people who were around when insulation started to become common in the 1900s) came up with the notion that houses needed to breathe when paint started to fall off of the siding on walls that had recently been insulated. The issue was vapor pressure, not inability to breathe, but folks back then didn’t know any better. There’s been about a century of research on building science since then. Anyone interested in the topic can look at the decades of research done by Building Science Corp., or for a crash course, check out the recently published book, “Houses need to breathe - or do they?” Spoiler alert: I gave it away up top. (Edited to consolidate two comments in one for clarity)

Yeah it’s my wife’s car and she commutes far each day. RT is probably around 150mi. Don’t want her having to rely on SC if she can it topped off here reliably every night.

My panel sticker doesn’t come with that diagram. Only thing next to it is a door directory for labeling circuits.

Also the 60amp car charger for the Tesla isn't always necessary. I plug mine into a regular garage outlet overnight and have never needed the lvl 2 charger.

level 1 charges ~7miles every hour (84 miles if you charge 12 hours overnight, which is more than most people's daily commute)

60 amp level 2 chargers ~36 miles every hour (full charge pretty much guaranteed)

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Cut out all the damaged subfloor, add blocking if needed, and bring the new floor up to match existing floor. I would glue down the new ply to the joists. For LVP, consider flattening out any inevitable height differences with planing/sanding, and fill gaps or divots with floor patch.

If there’s water damage under the sole plate, you might be able to remove it and replace, but as this is an exterior wall, it will be a PITA. Just add blocking and tie the new subfloor in there.

These CH breakers should be compatible with SquareD Homeline (HOM) breakers (make sure they say HOM and not QO). Eaton breakers would work too, but i'm not sure they have as many tandom options as square d.

I can't tell if your panel is compatible with tandems yet though. Can you show me the picture diagram that should be right next to all this? it'll have a bunch of squiggly lines beneath a main breaker. slots that have 2 squiggly lines instead of 1 are compatible with tandems.

Sometimes it'll tell you how many breaker slots there are and if it says 20/30 slots then 10 bottom slots can be tandem, or 20/40 means all slots can be tandem.

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My house is 2 years old, and apparently now combination GFCI/AFCI breakers are a thing. I have a feeling I’d have to sell a kidney if one of those has to be replaced.

You do not want those vents in a hot roof type attic. It's part of conditioned space and you aren't insulated between the "warm" attic and "hot" (relatively speaking) house. If it's part of the thermal envelope it should not be vented. The point of the spray foam is to provide an air and moisture barrier.

These lights are dimmable and I have used the guides provided to purchase compatible dimmer switches. I have also tried another different type of dimmer switch and experienced the same noise results at the panel.

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Lights have to be dimmable. Dimmer had to support LED that dim. Sometimes they aren't compatible. Try getting a better / different dimmer first. Since replacing lights is harder to do

panel diag #1

panel diag #2

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The attic has to breath or it will get hotter, and so the main house. Vents low and vents high passive cooling. The foam just slows the progression

Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll look into moving those around and see if I can manage.

Check your panel diagram for compatible breaker types. It will also tell you which/ how many breaker slots are able to be replaced with tandems. If you upload a pic of your diagram I could help more.

You might have better luck with square d or Bryant af- tandems and depending on your CH panel, they might be compatible.

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