Might be better to post some photos so others can see the damage

This is a weird one; look at the grain, is your cut following it? Also turn off the blade oscillation if it has it, and turn the speed down and go slower. If you have a good pencil line to follow you don’t even really need guides or rails, but without photos of your setup can’t tell if your rail guides are set up right. Try freehanding it down a pencil line you put on with a straightedge. A tracksaw would be ideal or a bandsaw if you know anyone. But a jigsaw is possible. It’s just the worst power tool for the job.

It's most likely the connection point from your water hose into the washer. If not, it's probably an internal part.

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Head on over to /r/tile where the professionals are and explain that grout is waterproof. You'll have some fun.

https://youtu.be/_DI4hfHM_Hg - watch this please.

This is the definitive guide. He's uploaded a couple of follow ups to this one, but start here.

This is the state of the art, nobody has done it better. Anyone still smearing their fingers, or using tape or soapy water ......simply put, is doing it wrong.

You can clamp a couple of straight edges to the 6x6 to help guide your drill.

Thats the truth. They just wont find much in this case.

You need to understand that the "pivot point" of a jigsaw is right in front of the blade. Many people try to force the front where they want it to go, instead of stopping forward movement and moving the back end of the saw.

That being said, open ended blade tools will wander, you'll never get a band saw like cut

No harm in checking though.

Best you can do is to go very slow and let the blade do the work. Don’t push the saw. I absolutely hate jigsaws for this very reason. They are only good for cutting very thin wood. Cutting curves with a jigsaw are even worse on thick material. Bandsaw is the way to go there.

Unless something has changed drastically in the code in the last edition, there isnt a set distance from the doorway for light switches, at least in the US. Besides, it's old construction, and code device distancing doesn't really apply.

Its not a standard distance:

Its usually mounted to the nearest stud to the doorway that isnt part of the door frame. That usually puts it within a foot of the doorway. Standard stud gaps are 16", but the doors tend to encroach on that a bit.

But sometimes it ends up mounted to the doorframe stud, anyway. If the frame is thick enough, and there isnt much trim, thats not a problem.

So what it looks like they did and they put a metal fence post into a concrete. They just used a tube to pour the concrete in along with the pole. Then they basically made a 4x4 out of 2x4s. The basically built a box to slide over the pole so they could put the wood fence up.

Troubleshooting.

Flip the board over to see if it veers the same way. If so, it is not the board, and you have eliminated one possibility.

I ran into this with a band saw when the blade guide wasn't perfectly straight, but I don't know how that could happen on a jigsaw.

House built in 1944 and 0 cracks anywhere so i think im good :) thanks alot!

Haha, sounds good. Just making sure I understand the process. Great work!

i said modern grout, yes? which would all have an epoxy element to them.

also, i said "theoretically” waterproof originally. didn’t think that the minuscule amount of water absorption was material to the conversation.

Fill the hole with rubber cement, let it dry, re-drill the hole with a fine threaded self-tapping screw.

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Thick enough? You mean i should have 2meters of concrete? It doesnt seem like you are in construction mate. Yes, concrete does absorb water. The reason behind this is that concrete is a highly porous material that is made up of gravel, sand, cement and water. The final product appears hard but is full of pores.

Concrete burns even if it starts raining on it. Pouring. You often water a new slab to make it not cure too fast, in that case it will crack.

A packet soil ground is always the first start,under the concrete, and when you can level that you can skip the bottom concrete, (since it has no use at all). That way i save money, work, and height in this low-ceiling bathroom.

Concrete that's thick enough does not let water through. A concrete slab is the default first layer over here:

Flooring (tiles in this case) Screed Insulation Concrete Plastic

The plastic is around 100 um thick and is only so water from the concrete doesn't go into the earth. To make sure the concrete cures correctly.

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I don't think any jigsaw would be satisfactory, entry level or top end. You would be better off using a nice sharp handsaw and wedging the cut open as you go. Circular or table saw would be better, but if you don't have those.......

Jigsaws when cutting down the grain, will naturally follow the grain your never going to get a decent cut with what is effectively the wrong tool to do the job. Circular saw is the answer