I do not care about waterproofing a basement with concrete walls that needs to breath, both in and out. Otherwise you get a mold problem.

Very close

XD the "p-trap", is that a water lock? That is in the drain, under that big lid. Which country are you from? Ive never seen a air vent so close to every drain ever in sweden. We may have 1 or 2 air-vents/backflow thingies in a whole house.

Just fyi you caulk inside corners. Don’t grout inside corners. But an outside corner - as you saw someone explained it should be a butt joint that allows the vertical face to have the grout line there so that the top/horizontal surface is all tile.

GREAT JOB!!!

I dont think you know how this works. As i said earlier, you cant rubberize a somewhat damp basement with concrete walls. Concrete needs to breath, especially in basements. And to be real, why do you see a need for a waterproof system in a basement with concrete everywhere? Really no point.

The ground is solid. Thats always a first step, even if you build a parking garage. The 2 layer foams, with boards on top, which are pretty sturdy if youve never worked with one, is kinda tough. And 12mm slab ontop which also filled gaps and what not. Dont be that guy, it holds up my bathtub with no problem, and my daughter jumps and plays without a crack.

Colour matching shouldnt be a huge issue. Plenty of suppliers have tons of colours and most retailers can order in the colours you need.

You will not be able to match caulk colours perfectly. They vary batch to batch even if you get the same colour from the same supplier. Existing caulk might also discolour over time and not match new caulk. However, if there are no direct joins, you should get away with doing one separated section, such as around the lip of the tub, in a replacement colour without doing everything else.

As for waterproofing, caulk in bathrooms should basically be a first line of defence. Grout and most tiles are porous and water will get through them. The bulk of the waterproofing should be a membrane under the tiling.

If its just the ends of your caulk that are tipping up, id personally just try sticking them back down again with some glue or whatever. Removing caulk can be easy or very painful, depends on access, thickness, etc.

Putting down a nice bead is also sometimes very easy and sometimes very difficult. If your surfaces meet, then it will be quite easy, but if youre filling in a 10mm gap with caulk, you will have a very shit time.

The easiest process ive found is to have some paper towels or rags ready, lay the bead, spray the area with soapy water, spray your finger with soapy water, and then shape the bead with your finger. Clean the excess onto a rag, and continue. If you dont use soapy water, you will have a shit time cleaning up. A very shit time.

Tldr this is not a big problem and you can choose to leave it or repair it for cosmetic purposes, the real waterproofing should be under the tiles.

Mechanically speaking, you only need to replace the sections that have failed.

But aesthetically you may be better off replacing all of it. But from the description, it sounds like you only really need to replace the bead running around the perimeter of the tub.

There's really not that many possible colors for caulking. Transparent, white and almond are the most common. But other colors do exist. Colors do shift as the caulk ages and gets bleached by cleaning chemicals, so you will not be able to perfectly match the colors.

But getting at least close in color should be good enough.

My advice about installation is

1. Cut away all the failed caulk, don't caulk over failing caulking

2. Use a plastic caulk scraping tool to make sure all caulk has been removed.

3. make sure the tub surface and surround surface is very clean and dry.

4. use your finger to smooth over where the new caulk joins the good caulk. You want to make sure there is no gap there.

5. remember: you can't ruin it with a bad caulk job. At worst, you have to scrape clean and try again.

You cant use a waterproofing system on concrete walls in a basement. The walls needs to be able to breath. We tested this in this exact bathroom like 8 years ago. We used the kiilto rubber in the shower and on the wall. But the concrete gets a little damp sometimes so the rubber comes off. Its a different story building in a basement than a new drywall - box

Remove it all and re-caulk or you'll be chasing the issue for years to come.

The one trick that contractors do is to fill the tub before caulking around the tub.

The weight drops the tub. Otherwise, the caulk will separate from the tub later in when you fill the tub for a soak.

I’m sure it’s safe but the idea of an electric heated floor in my shower just makes me think I’m getting Zapped.

We packed the ground - insulaton - plastic - boards - floor heating - leveling concrete. The leveling concrete slab flows down into cracks and edges and fills most up. Yeah if a underground mega earthworm comes im in trouble x)

Technically, any mask meant for filtering breathing air is a respirator. N95 is alright, we called for that any time concrete would be cut or drilled dry. But you would need to take care that it's fitted well. If you can't find any regular masks that fit well you might need to go with an elastomeric half-mask or something.

Copy that

Under the insulation. Well, for what rly? And then another layer conceling the floor heating? Well, you gonna have to drill. Clothes hanger, showerwall, shelves etc.

They sell multiple colors of sanded caulking to match grout lines. Check in tile area of big box store or a tile store.

Its gonna suck the first time. Do it once but dont worry if its not perfect. You'll have plenty of time to redo it.

As a cleaner, I hate glass shower doors so much lol.

Despite my hatred for large glass doors your new bathroom is gorgeous. Beautiful work.

You mean a trip-fall-toekiller curb? No thx ^^

About 2 meters. We are kinda short so its np ^^

CO2 is heavier than air--maybe that's where the misconception comes from.

The pros would use an akemi epoxy to fill then polish it with a rotary sander / polisher.

Grout will do the job but may pop out after a period of time as it’s a small joint.

To caulk blue tape either side then a very small bead I guess, probably wet finger finish. I’d do grout personally as it’s easy to remove if you mess up.

Sorry but this is incorrect on both key points.

First, grout is not waterproof. It doesn't pass water easily but it's not waterproof.

Second, the reason you caulk changes of plane is precisely because caulk is flexible. The two planes will swell and shrink at different rates over time, causing grout to fail. Having said that, grouting a mitered tile assembly around a niche is quite common because the one plane is so small it won't move much.

Cardboard as in the back of a legal pad might be what you want, right.

Yeah, you gotta push it in deep..

Just bolster twelve husk nuts to each girldle-jerry, while flex tandems press a task apparatus of ten vertically composited patch-hamplers. Then, pin flam-fastened pan traps at both maiden-apexes of the jim-joist.