We are going to caulk the bottom because of the terrible drafts. 100 year old colonial

Always a match around to provide cover fire for your #2s.

Thanks everyone!

Don't do this. Some types of CA glue soaked into cotton can catch fire.

Before I read the comments, lemme guess, Finland?

that fifth picture looks like an album cover for a 1990's grunge band.

To drain correctly it needs a vent within a limited distance from the drain (4'-6' depending upon drain size and slope). I'm also concerned since I can't see a p-trap at the shower drain. It will be likely to smell.

But, really nice job on redoing the concrete and sloping the drain area well. And I love the new look.

Sweden, right? I wonder why you didn't use a waterproofing system before tiling?

Thanks, me either. I mean, it's not amazing quality, but it would work in a pinch, especially if OP didnt want to spend a lot of time dicking around with a frustrating situation. Meh. Just a thought.

What do you have against the Dutch?

Nice job! Did you pour any additional concrete or is the insulation and then leveling concrete on top of that? If the dirt move, would that crack your floor?

not sure why you're getting downvoted. I too saw the peel and stick ones and I think they make one that you can fold down the middle to form a corner bead. Is peel-and-stick "caulking" known to be useless trash? Are they known to lose adhesion fairly quick? What if they're properly prepped with alcohol and such? Just curious before I try some out myself...Thanks

Break a toothpick flush with the screw hole. Install screw with the toothpick in the hole.

Update: so thanks for the responses. My main concern was the safety of the switch and if there was a small fire hazard. I ended up taking a snow day today and picked up a new three way switch and replaced the whole thing. I’m in the process of painting the shelving that I had to dismantle but it wasn’t as bad as I thought.

This is a heavy duty renovation.

I'm just suggesting that you put it back in and try it all again, since that switch sounds more easily accessible.

Yes, they are dimmable.

I used the original non-dimmer switch when I first installed it and it all worked. I also checked the dimmer to make sure that it was rated for LED and it was.

I did some more research, and some supposed experts recommend flexible caulk that allows the floor to move but still seals out drafts insects etc.

I would have done concrete under the floor before insulation. Even if it wasn't in a basement. Also, bit of a shame to drill in those new times to hang the shelf imo. Other than that, nice work!

I got battery powered CO detectors so I could put them at eye level without running wires down walls. I guessed that maybe they were supposed to be at eye level because CO hovered at a certain level based on relative humidity in the room but it’s probably just that it’s where people are likely to breathe it in, yeah?… if it all just mixes.

Correct

Definitely an often mentioned thing. The concern with CO is that it disperses evenly everywhere. So it doesn't really sink or rise just mixes.

Always grew up hearing that the detectors need to be low along the wall when it is actually recommended to be mid-wall or slightly below eye level. They'll really be effective placed anywhere in a room.

Not sure why it is perpetuated. I imagine the fact that outlets are lower to the floor and typically where a plug-in style would go reinforces this belief.

I never caulk the bottom. And if I can get a good fit, (small, relatively uniform gap) I prefer not caulking the top either.

I've the same floor light