Recent comments in /f/DIY

UpgrayeddSmurphy t1_j5kz5ca wrote

Reply to How do I caulk a 270 degree edge? by eagleslanding

Typically, this isn't an edge that would necessarily need caulking. What should've been done is bring the surface tile flush to the face of (or just proud) the wall tile, so the grout edge is on the flat of the wall, instead of the corner of the transition.

Secondly, an 1/8th on an inch is minimum for a grout edge to bind well, and this looks too thin, which is likely what's giving you problems.

You should remove as much of the grout that's in there, maybe use an angle grinder with a diamond wheel, or dremmel to help widen the gap just a scotche.

Make it clean as possible, and wipe it down with something like mineral spirits. Tape the two outside edges and then caulk it with a good shower n tile caulk (dap 3.0 I like), making sure to "push" it in deep.

The alcohol will help dry it out before the caulking, cuz any water left in there is just going to fail your silicone. Also: it says 2 or 3 hour "shower ready", but I always recommend letting it cure overnight before you get it too wet.

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bouchy73 t1_j5kx46j wrote

Reply to How do I caulk a 270 degree edge? by eagleslanding

The simplest way is to take a piece of rigid cardboard and a straight edge. Cut out the shape of your edge and drag it length wise down the edge.

In your case, apply a little more caulk than you need and you would cut out a 90⁰ section of the cardboard (round the corner a bit) and then start at one wall and work your way to the other. This should deliver the results you are looking for.

Edit: you should look for caulk removal tools as well

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I-Camel t1_j5kwg2a wrote

Reply to comment by mschuster91 in Old disgusting bathroom gets a makeover (reupload) by Gryllan

There’s a myth that carbon monoxide alarms should be installed lower on the wall because carbon monoxide is heavier than air. In fact, carbon monoxide is slightly lighter than air and diffuses evenly throughout the room.

According to the carbon monoxide guidelines of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 720, 2005 edition), all carbon monoxide alarms “shall be centrally located outside of each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms,” and each alarm “shall be located on the wall, ceiling or other location as specified in the installation instructions that accompany the unit.”

Why CO alarms are often installed near the floor:

Standalone carbon monoxide alarms are often placed low on the wall because they need to be plugged into an outlet that’s near the floor. CO alarms can also have a screen that shows the CO level and needs to be at a height where it’s easy to read.

https://support.google.com/googlenest/answer/9259392?hl=en

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cookerg t1_j5ku5sc wrote

Reply to Caulking on baseboard by YeldarbNod

I was told the bottom is left slightly open to accommodate the floor expanding and shrinking due temperature and humidity changes.

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AdaptationCreation t1_j5ku5bf wrote

Reply to comment by YeldarbNod in Caulking on baseboard by YeldarbNod

If you apply too much caulk, it doesn't look good. If you don't apply enough caulk, you aren't sealing. The painters tape makes sure the excess caulk gets removed.

Tape just a hair below the top of the baseboard. You should be able to fit a coin standing up, but that's about it. You can also put a bit of tape on the wall just above the baseboard. Your caulk tube should have a relatively small hole to better control the flow of caulk.

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mschuster91 t1_j5ktq3a wrote

Reply to comment by Gryllan in Old disgusting bathroom gets a makeover (reupload) by Gryllan

You need one CO alarm for each room with a combustion-based heater.

As for the fans: the one blowing in air is no problem at all, but the one blowing towards outdoors is. Even if it doesn't draw in visible smoke from the oven, it still may draw in CO.

Don't mess with CO. It's incredibly deadly and it is a regular occurrence that people die because something broke somewhere.

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Gryllan OP t1_j5ktm16 wrote

Reply to comment by stng17 in Old disgusting bathroom gets a makeover (reupload) by Gryllan

Haha yeah!? If it was a prob i would break open it from above and insulate it. Ive thought about doing that just to keep the colder climate in the basement, in the basement. The floors above can be cold at times. Thank you! I have so much to share, ive been building here for 5 years now, would be fun to make a video maybe. Really appreciate you guys commenting. Thanks again!

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