Goodwill... look for a cheap pressure cooker.

Stay away from glass, it’s unpredictable. Go to hardware store and look thru their pipe for some that’s big enough. They should have ends and threaded fittings to fit your bike pump. The first time you pressurize it fill it with water and take it up to 1.5x the pressure you want to use. If the pipe ruptures you’ll only have a small volume of compressed air in it so it’ll just spray water around. Small bang not a big one.

It doesnt have to be glass. Tin can is difficult to seal however and pop can's dont have a wide enough opening.

Its why i was also asking about plastic containers and if those could hold

the fan exhaust duct is already in place, it's outside the drywall so I have to later fix them in place and cover them up with plywood.

what do you mean how to run the electrical? I just take it from the living room?

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I can't say, as mason jars aren't designed to hold pressure, but rather hold a small vaccuum after something cools. Dors it have to glass? A tin can or even pop can can hold a lot more

Thing is i cant fit my mold through a bottle opening, and for mason jar im a little worried about if it does go wrong the glass would explode out. Would something like covering the sides with a blanket help with that?

Ah. I don't know about adding, but a mason jar or soda/beer bottle should work fine if it's less than 10psi.

I was intending to use a valve and pump from a bike wheel. Thats what they did in the tutorial and it seems like it should work fine since the pressure shouls be fairly low.

And also as that should hopefully clear up im not trying to make a vaccuum, im trying to add pressure.

How big is your pump? Most vaccuum pumps pull to about 30 easy and use a small 4 or 5qt stove pot

Probably not a good idea then. If the bathroom is on the first story, how are you going to run the fan exhaust duct to the outside? How are you going to run electrical?

I heard Panasonic ones are more expensive. Tomorrow I'm getting an 100CFM inline duct fan and grille and try it out first. I have recently moved a thermostat across a few studs, but I haven't added switch + fixture before. I watched a video yesterday and will watch again and take notes so I don't mess up the electric.

When you install a pre-hung door, you move the jamb in and out to meet the door when closed. Cut the nails behind the jamb at the top and on the strike side, close the door and move the jamb to the door. Make note of where the jamb is in relation to the rough opening, check the reveal, shim tight at the end of the top jamb and use one nail in the strike side jamb near the top. Close the door and check. The one nail will bend if you need to adjust. Put in a second nail and check again and so on. Don't skimp on the shims.

It looks like Panasonic has a 80-100cfm fan or fan/light that’s 3 3/8 deep. Really good exhaust fans but if you’re going to wire one in you need a good grasp on electrical. 120v constant hot gets fed into the fan, low voltage switch loop to the switch on all the ones I’ve used.

FV-0810RSL1

Worst case if you have a firm 3” restriction you could fir down the opening with some s4s trim.

Sorry this post was wrongly removed but it's back now!

Thank you. Will check that

Such is why trim exists. I framed a new partition wall, perfectly level and plumb down to 1/32nd of an inch and the door still wasn't fitting perfectly. I spent so much time trying to ensure that wouldn't happen and it still did.

If you have a long straight edge, check to see if the new door is warped. It might just be bent.

Also check the usual culprits; where you mounted the hinges, knob, and reciever. Also check for any obstructions that are causing it to veer outward.

Its not a big deal though. Once youve put trim around the frame youll barely notice it anyways.

Top or bottom hinge might be set too far forward or back.

My level is showing plump on each side inside the frame and in the face. Any thoughts on where would be off with this kind of issue?

Your jamb isn't plumb. This is true especially if the bottom is flush and all hinges are recessed the same.

Something is out of plumb then. Compare plumb of both sides of jamb.

Thanks for the reply. That would still be the case if the bottom of the door was more flush?

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Your strike plate is too far forward. Move it back a quarter inch, you may need to drill/chisel into the jamb to allow for the bolt to seat into the strike plate hole properly