Another possibility is to install joists and bring the entire ceiling down.

Just a thought... Can you install trim around the fanbox? You can then lower the fan assembly by up to 3/4" depending on the thickness of the trim boards. The only issue would be where the duct attaches to the fanbox.

If you get aluminum duct, you can push it oval so it will fit.

If you do it right, it might look good.

I did not see anything in your post about running electrical and a switch.

Scratch B Gone kit can be used to restore the grain of the finish. Have used it to refinish a marred sst ventilation hood. Its tedious, but gives good results if its bare metal. (A non affiliated link)

Strong alkalin cleaners, usually those that are made from caustic soda/sodium hydroxide/lye, won't pit stainless steel. It will however eat away and pit aluminum.

Hot caustic soda is used as an industrial oil and dirt cleaner for steel and in general won't harm it.

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I put my vent in a wall once bc there wasn't enough room in the ceiling, worked great.

Thanks for your reply! I deleted my previous comment as I now understand what you mean. I will definitely keep this in mind.

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If space is tight, you can always use an inline duct fan anywhere on the duct. Then, you can just attach the duct to the ceiling and put a generic grille over it.

Thanks. I think I will get a sparky for this time.

Use a few drops of fine machine oil and a chammy.

I didn’t think to do that, no. 🤦‍♂️ The two wires in the wire nut were attached on the left side of the switch and the ground on the top right. https://imgur.com/a/G67oJWx

And the wires look fine to me: https://imgur.com/a/n1tKDjc

Any chance when you screwed on the wire nut the copper broke on one of the wires? Very common, unscrew the wire nuts, pull the wires apart and check.

If that's not it, did you happen to take a picture of how it was wired before you started...

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/cleaning/22327722/removing-scratches-from-stainless-steel

To fix two switches that don't work in your bathroom, you will need to first identify the source of the problem. Here are some steps you can take:

1.Check the circuit breaker or fuse box to see if the circuit has tripped or blown. If it has, reset the circuit or replace the fuse.

2.If the circuit is not the problem, remove the switch plate and inspect the wiring. Make sure all the wires are securely connected to the switch and that there is no visible damage to the wiring.

3.If the wiring appears to be in good condition, the switch itself may be faulty. Test the switch with a multimeter to see if it is working properly.

4.If the switch is faulty, it will need to be replaced. Turn off the power to the circuit before replacing the switch.

5.Once you have identified and fixed the problem, turn the power back on and test the switches to make sure they are working properly.

It's always a good idea to hire an electrician if you're uncomfortable working with electrical wiring.

Buff it out. Next time sister should clean her stove a little more often to not require so much elbow grease.

>She used a metal scrub to clean the metal stove. She didn't let the soap or cleaning situation to sit for a couple hours.

Spraying exposed metal with caustic cleaners and letting them sit isn't a good idea either. Metal can pit. It would also cause the plastic display to fog out if any got on it and was left for a time. Steel surfaces require elbow grease and Barkeepers friend or a Stainless Steel cleaner. If none of these were available to use, all that is left is pure elbow grease and a brillo pad.

Regardless, if you are waiting months between cleaning, you are going to have a bad time no matter what you do.

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As the other poster mentioned - you can definitely make the scratches far less noticeable on stainless. One of the products that I can recommend is something called "Rejuvenate". Its a metal polish paste that you can use along the grain of the stainless that works very well for minor scratches like what yours looks like.

Don't think you'll eliminate it, but you can try using a similar or slightly finer pad but scrubbing with the "grain".

Still, it's unlikely to be the culprit. A loose wire would been giving intermittent issues as it made and lost its connection till it finally came completely off.

It could be a dead switch (aka one that failed in the off position) though, I'll give you that. Depending on the age of the switch it might even be the issue.

There could be a Loose wire coming off and breaking the circuit. Although rare, switches can fail internally.

If no one messed with the wiring, how would it suddenly become incorrect?

The problem isn't "I tried to swap out a switch, and now nothing works right" it's "my lights don't work even though no one messed with them and they worked fine an hour ago"

>Check the GFCI outlets in the bathroom to see if any of them have been tripped. Sometimes those get daisy chained together, even though that's not the proper thing to do.

This in particular is common in homes built between the 60s and the 80s. They used to have a two prong outlet for a plug in electric razor, tied to the bathroom lights but otherwise provided no GFI or even basic grounding protection (they did have a transformer to step down the voltage, so it wasnt a complete death trap). Homeowners and landlords typically just swap the two prong for a GFI receptacle but change nothing else about the circuit, which can take out the lights when the GFI trips. If you have an unusually large cover plate around a bathroom GFI, this has happened in your home

Yes, that'll work. You'll need 2 of those at each joint.

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