No it is a regular on/off panel switch

So you may have an issue at the kitchen light. Is there a dimmer there?

An average 3-4kW chimney uses only about 500L of gas per hour. That are really low volumes, even for 1/2" pipe.

Joule Thompson effects are measurable over an orifice i.e. Regulator but not really in these cyllinders. Also with these low pressures 1-2bar JT effect would be +-1 degree Celsius for pressure drop to atmosphere entering the chimney. Yes, the tank can hold more heat as more fluid is present but will still quickly cool down/warm up with the ambient temperature.

I dont think OP has any benefit with a bigger tank looking at his consumption or other circumstances.

Thanks. That makes troubleshooting easier.

Ballpark would be hard without knowing what size etc.

But with a little research on prices you can get a good idea. Just measure the square footage you need for drywall and insulation. Add some footage for DW waste. There you go you have that cost.

Now figure out what you will need for electrical and where. Get a quote from electrician. Now you have that cost. Add in drywall mud and paint cost. Cost for lights you will be using etc. etc.

Just try and figure out all the stuff you will need and with a little time on a HD site you will have all your DIY costs.

Your electrical is the wild card. You can diy some of the electrical(drilling holes and pulling wires etc.) to save costs but you should have an electrician do all hookups. They are also great at pointing out things you may have not thought of. Most in the trade will work with you that way.

But remember it is ballpark. There will always be extras that you never thought of or say a structural issue you didn't know about.

You shouldn't have a problem getting a ball park. Just leave room for any unforeseens. One would be you find out mudding drywall isn't your thing so now you have to hire out.

Finishing a garage is pretty straight forward so your ball park should be close

Both the hallway light and kitchen lights are regular on/off switches, no dimmers.

The kitchen lights are recessed cannisters. Closer to the circuit breaker than the LED hallway light.

Hire an electrician. It sounds like there is a real problem and you dont want a fire.

Edit: what kind of light in the kitchen, and is the kitchen upstream from your problem LEDs.

I don't think this is good. It sounds like you have some non-dimmable bulbs on a circuit with a dimmer. That will always end badly.

I would disconnect the wires from the first fixture that started flickering and see if that solves your problem.

Do you have a dimmer or a switch? For troubleshooting, you can replace the dimmer with a simple on-off switch and see if everything works properly like that. If it does, then its a poor interaction between the dimmer and the LEDs. Not all dimmers are rated for LED's and not all LED's are dimmable. Check what you have...

After matching the colour and sheen, repaint the whole wall section, edge to edge, top to bottom. Unless it's perfect, youll never get it to blend in flawlessly.

I would start at the junction box for the switch to the kitchen lights then. Look for burnt looking stuff, loose wire nuts.

Have you added any power line internet adapters recently? I had flickering LEDs and this was the cause. Guess anything else plugged into the same line could cause issues as well.

Sorry, circuit breaker. Thanks for clarifying.

The lights in the kitchen are recessed canisters. All of them are at the same brightness level whether it’s the full thing or 75%, so it has to be either the switch or a voltage issue

Thank you, I had a friend come by to try the switches as well in case I messed up the connections but got the same result. I’ll try a new fixture

Your house actually still has fuses, or is this a circuit breaker? Not likely the problem, just thought I'd clarify because breakers can go bad in weird ways. Or, if you do in fact have glass fuses you might have some seriously old and questionable wiring inside the walls.

My thought is the kitchen light junction box has a flaky connection in it or the kitchen light itself is faulty (is it also LED? CFL? flourescent tubes?) and this is affecting everything 'downstream' (the hall light).

Literally my job, as others have said you need a solids handling pump, for residential where lift (head) and flow are not that high I recommend a vortex style impeller, very clog resistant but less electrically efficient. YMMV but I would not purchase a Liberty, your best consumer grade pumps are going to be zoeller, barnes, or goulds.

Goulds

https://www.pumpcatalog.com/goulds/vtx-sewage-pumps/vtx0511/

Barnes (2SEV514L)

https://www.cranepumps.com/downloadables/CATALOGS_OIPMs/BARNES/1B/BE02-9.PDF

Zoeller (282 Series)

https://www.zoellerpumps.com/wp-content/themes/zoeller/content/literature/fm2791.pdf

In any case you want a manual pump (where the float is not part of the pump)

Let me know where you are and I might be able to put you in contact with a distributor

Many basements are still above the sewer line, so you don't need these pumps in that situation.

Kid might be the goat

As others have said the new paint does not match the old paint well enough to blend. It can be very difficult to blend in non-glossy sheens as well. Glossy, Semi-Gloss are easier to match. Egg Shell and Matte/Flat can be very tricky, more so with darker colors.

One thing that can really help do a better cover-up job is not painting any straight lines. Paint a star pattern * around the cover-up, and fade the points out by by using less pressure on the brush. You want to use as little paint as possible for the patch. The idea is to avoid making and sharp transitions from one color to another.

One last note about color. Even using the same exact bucket of paint from one day to the next may cause color differences. This is often not noticeable with white and light colors, but with darker (and flat-sheen) colors you should expect more problems.

LED drivers probably going bad. Lots of these are replaceable units.

Even then you won't get perfect results in my experience. You might be able to get away with painting just a single wall of a room with the matched color, but not painting only part of a wall with existing paint.

I live in a home we built roughly 20 years ago, and we've painted a few times. Some paint brands we used aren't even available anymore, so I've done plenty of color matching. If it's not the exact same brand and color code, it's always been at least slightly off.

I even tried matching the off-white primer from a paint chip so I could fix nail pops. That was a PERFECT match... Only when it was wet. 🥺

>I had an LED light fixture installed in my upstairs hallway that worked without issue for a year and a half, before it started flickering beyond use the past week.

Chances are that the electronics are going bad in the fixture if it's flickering badly. Can also show as a repeating on/off cycle.

> I bought 2 new switches and tried both of them. When the new switches were installed, the light would not work at all, not even a flicker. With the old switch installed, I still get the flicker.

Have another look at the connections on the new switches - if they didn't work at all chances are that you messed the connections up rather than a fault in both.

It's possible that you are getting voltage fluctuations because of old wiring but I'd check the above 2 things first.

The only issue you will have with a 10gal tank is it may not be able to supply enough propane. As you draw from any tank the liquid propane evaporates, as this happens it cools the remaining fluid/vapor. Drawing too quickly can cool the tank to the point that it cannot supply enough pressure. Not likely to happen with a grill in the summer, but in the cold outside during the winter and the small tank size it is possible(likely?).

Better get him checked out. He shouldn’t be eating soup cans.

Oh ok. I've had good luck with it, but it was a different kind of paint.