Recent comments in /f/DIY

Moosicle2040 t1_j4oejm4 wrote

  1. No a sump pump is not a replacement for a sewage (effluent) pump. 2. As you’re getting mixed answers on sewage ejector vs grinder pump - the answer is it depends, but most likely you want an ejector pump not a grinder pump. Grinder pumps do usually have more hp but it’s only necessary if you have a high lift or a long run. They also cost more. If you have a 2” waste line you don’t need to grind. Also if you have girls, I’ve seen a lot of caution videos from plumbers (I’m not a plumber) where hair likes to wrap around moving parts and burns the pump out on the cutter. You can find plenty of you tube videos detailing the difference between them and which is the best pump, blah blah blah. Everyone is a salesman or a critic. If you just have a standard basement to pump it out, get a 1/2 hp ejector pump, get one with at least 2-3 year warranty, don’t cheap out to save $100, don’t go to Home Depot or Lowe’s or Menards. Go to a plumber if you don’t know what you’re doing (I installed mine myself but it was within my skill set, can’t speak to your skills). A brand like a liberty or zoeller is fine if you don’t know where to start. Will run about $500 for the pump. Do get an alarm if you don’t have one already, that’ll run you another couple hundred plus install. Install costs more when there is already shit in the hole so like the other commenter said, expect it to run you $1300-$1500 unless you DIY then $700-$900. You don’t want to have to do this again (unless you found your forever home) and you don’t want to lay in bed wondering if you’re going to have a bad morning if someone flushed the toilet one too many times.
5

Commercial-Service77 t1_j4ocq1t wrote

Hire an electrician to install a dedicated sub-panel in the garage. With that installed, you can isolate the power and install 240 volt and 120 volt outlets by yourself. If you’re unsure, you can pay the electrician to inspect and do final hookup after you’ve installed boxes and wiring. Invest in a diy book on house wiring available from Lowes / Home Depot, (thumb through it to make sure it’s something you’ll be comfortable learning and doing.

3

colin294 t1_j4o35da wrote

Civil Engineer here. You do not need a grinder (macerating) pump unless you have a discharge pipe less than 2". If it's a 2" discharge, i would go with an ejector pump. It will pass a 2" solid and is less complex and more reliable than a grinder pump. Definitely do NOT replace it with a regular sump pump. If you dont know (and/or can't see) your discharge pipe size, i would replace it with a similar pump.

19

allmystuffistrash t1_j4o1kor wrote

Look for a sewage pump that has the proper amount of lift and horsepower for your basin. One that will handle up to 2” solids. You don’t need a grinder pump unless you just want to get fancy. If you do get a grinder style pump, be extra careful that there are no rocks or hard solids in your basin or going into your drains. The clearance between the grinder blade and backplate is only around .006” and will possibly grow over time to a larger gap that can pull in hard solids and create havoc to that blade and back plate. When the blade is trashed, it will no longer pump out your solids and will clog. Gould’s and Zoeller are some good brands that I can recommend.

2

allmystuffistrash t1_j4o073p wrote

Not all sewage pumps have grinders. The ones with grinders are nice, but a lot more expensive. My sewage pump has no grinder but will handle 2 inch solids. It’s been working great for nearly 15 years (knock on wood).

Edit: I work at a place that sells all different kinds and I’m a pump repairman. The ones with grinders are the ones that I see most in my shop. They seem to break down often.

17

Free_Leonard_Peltier t1_j4o0386 wrote

When selecting your new macerating pump, please don’t purchase the cheapest one. If you’re planning on staying there for a while, remember the saying “pay me now, or pay me later”. Buy a good quality pump and forget about it, future you will be happy you did.

Side note, to get yourself out of a pinch, you could use a regular sump pump as long as you suspend it somewhat (4-8”) from the bottom and cross your fingers. Not for permanent installation as tissue paper or poo will plug it, but to prevent a mess, it could certainly save the day. Bathroom is out of order until you get the proper pump in place though.

Good luck to you! May the brown always go down!

3

HonoredMule t1_j4nq0a9 wrote

I was in a similar position, except not ventless and I went straight to "take your tank and GTFO" because sleazy gas company, and I didn't buy a house to keep renting crap.

I considered the same route but never bothered. Eventually I just ripped it out, and enjoyed some significant improvement in heating efficiency from trading a hole in my wall plus metal heatsink back into solid insulated wall. My family room got more comfortable and more spacious, even after (mostly) self-installing a mini-split to replace it.

2