Thanks for the reply! I think I may have got it. However, the fan is working, but the lights are not: https://imgur.com/a/WhKnUip

Thanks for the reply! I think I may have got it. However, the fan is working, but the lights are not: https://imgur.com/a/WhKnUip

Thanks for the reply! I think I may have got it. However, the fan is working, but the lights are not: https://imgur.com/a/WhKnUip

I've seen a couple of these switches before. Sometimes they have the line side already internally connected (or with a tab you can cut if you want them to be separate on the line side. I'd have to see a picture of the back side of it to tell you. But yeah you just need the one line side (with maybe a jumper if it is internally separated), and each switch leg connected to the other side of each switch.

If there is a ground stud on the switch (probably), ground it also.

If you looked at the pictures you could see why a layman is confused. The new switch isn't self contained with blue, red, white pigtails coming out of it. Why is the most unhelpful comment the most upvoted?

So in looking at the double switch, it would be one hot on the left, the single red wire from the fan on the top and the single black wire from the fan on the bottom? No ground connected?

So it looks like the switch previously just took power in and split it up for you onto the twi switches. The new one will do the same, so long as you don't break the little separater tab off the side, it's just that your new one will be external so you can see it.

All you need to do here is determine which wire is which. And even then, you really just need to know which one is hot/line in. So if you have any means of non-contact testing that, do that. Otherwise multimeter to check connectivity up to the fan by making a closed loop you can ID each wire. Absolute worst case you guess and wire it up. If you're wrong the switch simply won't have any impact or it will not turn on.

I didn't look at the new switch, but it 'may' require you to split the line in and wire to both terminals instead of spanning that for you.

That said, in the one picture there are black wires twisted together and no wire nut. Don't do that. Ever.

The neutral and ground are already "passed thru" this box to the fan. You could add a pigtail to the ground for the switch if you wanted. I always do out of an abundance of caution.

To add on, if you're trying to control 2 things separately, then only your double switch will work. Black from the group of 3 blacks should go to the line side of BOTH switches. The lone black and red will go to thr switched side, one on each switch. Leave neutrals and grounds all tied together

Hard to tell in the last picture how it was previously wired but what I'm seeing is top left with red and black are the switch legs for the light and fan respectively (are they the same appliance?) Top right/bottom right are just your 120v normal power just also using this JBox as an extra junction point. Is there an outlet below this switch?

Power comes in, power is also daisy chaining somewhere else. Also a double switch is there for co trolling 2 different things which is why there are 2 switch legs

Just hook up the new switch exactly how you found it.

I had no idea such things existed! This item doesn't come with a big enough ID, but I'll look around. Thanks!

Silicone tubes would be a lot easier to cut, and cheap too. I just found some food grade ones at eBay... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Food-Grade-Clear-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-Tubing-Brew-Hose-ID-0-5mm-50mm-OD-1mm-60mm/144007235098?chn=ps&var=443290852298&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:11Z4pf3TBRqyFO1Ws2h3DRA68&norover=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=443290852298_144007235098&device=t&mktype=pla&googleloc=1018251&campaignid=17597089569&abcId=9300988&merchantid=424807978&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzeSdBhC4ARIsACj36uFFOT6v2v3GhtCNUxa3Ifc2GcGljGgDZOIQveNnICwXjzmkH4TKsf0aArCmEALw_wcB&pageci=7c238ab5-83b2-4502-8695-b12a15b904e3&redirect=mobile

Don’t bother with mcmastercarr— waste of money for a hobbyist.

They charge a lot extra for materials because their business model revolves around supplying materials ASAP — overnight delivery to most industrially zoned addresses.

Residentialsndont get overnight delivery so you’re just paying a lot for something you can get anywhere else (McMaster carr makes 0 products)

Look into a metal supply in your area

Hacksaw it with a thin blade. If you have any manual skill that it. Should be easy, as long as you can keep a straight cut line.

Longer tube, stainless blade in drop saw, like this

Oh, I thought you had a SchutzStaffel ring and came here to advice against slicing it, but nvm carry on

If he had a metal lathe yes. Clearly he's not a metalworker. But it was still possible he had a wood lathe.

I guess you could cut stainless steel tube on a wood lathe, slowly, maybe? But you'd have to make that plug to hold it on the lathe anyway, at which point it's faster to take it out and use it as your clamping jig on the cutoff saw. Not to mention safer

Screws and nails into end grain, never. That is super weak.

Glue into end grain... not recommended by master carpenters I guess but for holding a jig together it's fine. Especially if it's a short fat piece of wood like a chunk of 2x4. I've done it before, and when the glue cures, it's near enough unbreakable. It's not "super super weak" like you were saying... you're thinking of screws into end grain.

I hadn't bothered googling it, was just talking from experience, but since you rudely called me a googler I went ahead and found this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7HxBa9WVis It shows that you can break the end-grain glue up at the glue joint, BUT it takes more force to break the glue joint than it does to break the wood on a side-glued joint. So I was partially wrong, the glue will break before the wood if you glue end grain to end, but it is still super strong.

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Fair enough. Good luck

If OP had a lathe couldn't they just use that to cut the tube into pieces without anything extra?

Did Google tell you that? I bet it did.

Google should also tell you how easily end grain tears right the fuck out which is why you don't make end grain joints and don't put screws into end grain.

I see I'm up against the Googlers tonight. Y'all have a good weekend, I'm gonna go turn some maple bowls.

I am well aware how strong modern wood glues are but end grain joints are weaker than shit. I make money woodworking, I've seen enough "idiot customer requests" that I knew would have failed joints that this idiot woodworker thought, again, a warning that they would fail would mean the customer wouldn't come back at me as though it was my fault.

Ah yes. This can handle all of that with ease.