Yeah, for a one-off it's easier to find someone with one.

If you are going to do stuff like this overall, i'd take a community college metalworking class. They are usually very cheap, and things like lathes/mills are very easy to learn. They often have ones you can use once you pass safety training.

Metalworking lathes, for simple things like this, are relatively safe. Definitely much safer than woodworking lathes.

I was just pricing one at Harbor Freight....$800. If I had any other use for it, I might go for it. I understand they can be pretty dangerous, though, if you don't know what you're doing. And I don't. :-)

This is totally trivial with a lathe and cutoff/parting tool if you can find one - community colleges, maker spaces, etc. Also any metalworking shop, of course.

Lots an lots of places have maker spaces these days, so even if you didn't want to bug a local metal shop, i have to imagine it wouldn't be that tricky to find a maker space with a lathe that can handle this.

No, I've spent hours looking. My purpose is non-standard--I'm going to use them for cookies and people don't use molds for cookies. That's why I wanted them about 1/4"H. I'm worried that taller ones will make them brown funny, but I won't know until I try. I did find some that were 2.5Dx 0.75H" high on a restaurant supply site. For 3.0" D, the height jumps to 1.0".

>straight stainless exhaust tubing from summit racing

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stw-2-5hss-2?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAqt-dBhBcEiwATw-ggCAQKQMXPgs2qbzpNtzDoyuTyOVIKa9e1Ua0EhB1FnQY4vUr2bunrRoCIQIQAvD_BwE

2ft for $38!

Can you not just buy the baking molds you want? There has to be thousands to choose from on Amazon or similar

How thick of a wall do you need? Just get a foot long piece of straight stainless exhaust tubing from summit racing and make them from that.

For something that size, I'd probably just be patient with a dremel , cutoff wheels and a bunch of patience - especially if I'm trying to get as many rings out of it as I can. No form would be needed to hold it; you could mark the height you're cutting off on the tube and hold it with either vice grips or a good glove (it will get hot).

2" diameter PVC pipe gas a 2.375" OD and is cheap. Use something to take up the extra 1/16" each side.

Hammer a dowel rod into it. Clamp the dowel, cut away.

I would never do this in furniture, but there is evidence that an end grain joint is not as weak as it traditional joinery topology has made it out to be. Modern wood glues are a lot better than traditional hide glues and end grain joints can be surprisingly strong. Rob cosman on the subject: https://youtu.be/l_w_or3KhH4

For a temporary, practical use, I think you could get away with it.

>End grain joints are super, super weak.

They really aren't. They're a little weaker than a side-grain glue joint. Maybe.

Get a couple chunks of 2x4, glue them end to end properly with wood glue and clamps, and I bet you $1000 you cannot break that joint. The wood will break first.

I got you.. get some pack-n-fill packs and break a hole in each side. Put in a large garbage bag so they have room to extrude. Fill them within the tube outside the garbage bag. It makes a big rigid expanded foam used in delicate shipping. They expand massively!

"I used to work as a camp counselor and they gave me this ring I'm trying to get off."

"So there was this youth league I used to be in and they gave me this ring I'm trying to get off"

Definitely a bandsaw but a bench bandsaw would be better.

Sacrificial or not, what good will it be when it breaks off while OP is cutting?

End grain joints are super, super weak.

Well yeah if he has a metal lathe he could just do the whole job there... I'm assuming he doesn't because nobody who owns a metal lathe would ask this question.

Good thing this is a sacrificial piece of wood that will get thrown out

Hopefully I can find some SS ones, then. I'll have to bake them first to make sure there aren't other nasty substances hidden on them.

When it comes in, take the nut off and swing by hardware store. I do not suggest galvanized nuts they can let off a smell when heated.

Fantastic! I'll order a few of these. They seem to be thicker than I wanted, but they still might work fine; I won't know until I try them. Thanks for the idea.

So you'll see a "bolt" and "lock nut" the lock nut is the part with the nylon, it should be removable and swapped for a "jam nut" there may also be some with no nuts and just a threaded insert that will also be no problem.

Could have attracted a very different audience!

Oh, yes, very, very close! I see something about a nylon insert locknut. That sounds like a problem in an oven. Is that just one particular design or are all brands likely to have that?