you have an 84W load as you noted. you’re fine

5000k. are you performing surgery in your house?

No, assume it is dangerous -- THEN check the alarm.

Remove your animals from the premises immediately until a professional identifies and rectifies the source. Significantly elevated CO *will* kill you and your pets.

Leave the premises until you have it fixed!

Oh, good to know! Wouldn’t mind having a couple rooms dim even lower at times.

That's called dead travel in the lighting world. It's a common LED issue.

If you're buying big name brand LEDs, you're likely getting good performance. I think the Caseta dimmers are already set for a low end trim out of box to account for typical performance issues. You may want to check your app to see if you can reduce to the trim if your LEDs are performing well and you want more range on the low end.

> 4k is the color of the sun at noon.

Depending on the season and your latitude, noontime sun is somewhere in the 5000-5800K range. 4000K is closer to early-morning or late-afternoon sunlight.

All the dimmable LEDs I have work fine without any flickering at the default lowest brightness setting on Lutron Caseta dimmers. I’ve got a couple of HD store-brand ceiling lights that turn on in a weird way (I assume a capacitor is charging or something) but after a few seconds they’re fine too.

Nothing would piss me off more than waking up dead

Where does this person live? 🤔

[deleted]

That's not true. The peak voltage also will vary for the typical phase shift dimmer. It's just not a linear function of the RMS voltage.

CO2 detectors (sold as indoor air quality meters) are becoming more of a thing as companies have figured out that baselessly scaring informing people about their indoor air "quality" is profitable.

CO2 Alarms are definitely not a common thing in residential buildings. I agree with you that OP almost certainly has a Carbon Monoxide alarm going off.

Different folks right? I assumed this was for a grow room to need that mich lighting on 1 switch

[deleted]

Exactly. I remember my dad installing a solid state dimmer in the extension to our house in about 1973, and they were common then. The only problem was that he found it quite difficult to source as he needed a pretty high power one (750W or 1kW - something like that). We also had a couple of wire-wound linear rheostats which were probably about 1kW capacity each, and which my dad used for amateur theatre lighting and these things were huge - about a foot long and about 4" square in section. They also needed a lot of ventilation to keep cool.

[deleted]

It’s worse than that, a standard (cheap) dc supply as used in a LED lamp uses a capacitor to limit the current as the capacitor charges and discharges on the AC cycle it lets a small amount of current flow, but if the AC signal is not smooth then the capacitor and the rest of the circuit get the electronic equivalent of jerk on every cycle, which stresses everything and will rapidly lead to failure.

I would really recommend you consider 3100K or less for indoors, unless you are setting up an exam room or something.

Why, he sounds like a dolt and she sounds incapable of communicating specificity, let it fail.

Keep in mind that CO alarms have a limited lifespan and will fail on, meaning it will start to beep when it no longer works correctly. So check to make sure you CO alarm is not expired before assuming your house is safe or dangerous.

This is the correct newer.

>Dimmers don't work by limiting the number of watts

Unless it's a constant power dimmer.

It could also lead to flickering in LEDs even if they are "dimmable" as the dimmer just chops up the AC waveform. At least some of them do. This leads to a lot of spikes which can lead to both flicker and an annoying buzzing sound.

Those wifi or bluetooth controllable LED bulbs are much nicer, although way too expensive imo.