Is anyone considering that OP has a problem with CO2, as posted? I know my apartment isn't particularly well ventilated. This can be an issue for me in winter when opening all of the windows is undesirable.

OP you need to find out, right now, if you have a CO problem. If it is CO, call the fire department and GET OUT. If it is just CO2, most hardware stores have a little thing you can use to prevent your windows from being fully opened. Window fans placed in a window can help circulate the air with outside air. It raises your heating bill but beats suffocation.

100%, I spent the extra for the color hues mostly for all the color temperature settings. The main lights rarely use the full color settings. But it sure is nice when I need some extra visibility that I can change everything to a nice crisp cool white.

Window screens?

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As others have said, this isn't something to mess about with.

If you are currently at work, and your pets are locked in your house. Leave now. Get them out of there. Get this sorted today!

The GE Cync smart bulbs are surprisingly affordable. I put a bunch of them in my basement where I had a bunch of individual ceiling lights with pull chains. Now they all go on at once with the press of one smart switch. I'm also using them around the house in places where I can't have a dimmer but would like one.

You must mean carbon monoxide, CO. That is potentially lethal. Is your furnace vent blocked? You might need an urgent inspection by the gas company or even fire dept.

If your carbon monoxide alarms are going off, YOU AND YOUR ANIMALS NEED TO EVACUATE IMMEDIATELY. Call your local emergency services and leave the building.

I use this feature. I generally adjust trim so that the lights come on when I dim up from off. When I do that, it usually is bright enough to not strobe when you dim all the way down from fully lit.

Get the fire department to come check your house for carbon monoxide. ASAP. You could wake up DEAD tomorrow morning.

Legrand also has a “Calibration” adjustment on their dimmers for the same reason.

After renovating our kitchen with a lot of deep blue elements, we experimented with lighting in various temperatures. The 5k lights looked the best, hands down.

Normally, I’d agree with you - we use warm whites in the 2.3 to 3k range everywhere else in the house. But there is a place for 5k!

Since we had to order the lighting before the renovation was done, all I can say is thank goodness for fixtures with variable temperature settings. Because of my bias towards warm light, I’m certain I never would have chosen 5k in advance.

Window screens.

You need to have someone come out to determine the source of the CO (you do mean carbon monoxide, right? Not carbon dioxide)

A quick Google search shows that CO buildup in houses are usually from:

Heating system/ Household appliances gas fires, boilers, central heating systems, water heaters, cookers, and open fires that use gas, oil, coal, and wood — may be possible sources of CO gas. Due to poor maintenance, ventilation, or other technical faults, they may produce the gas.

Unvented Space Heaters An unvented space heater uses combustible fuel and indoor air for the heating process. It vents the gases it makes into the room, instead of outdoors.

Attached Garages Exhaust from vehicles running in the garage are not able to vent outside if the garage door is closed prematurely or people run the car to warm it up with the garage door down

If you track the source and fix it, you won't have to bar your windows. What keeps other people out also prevents you from getting out if there is a fire.

Here is an article that might help https://www.cdc.gov/co/faqs.htm

Good luck!

I have some phillip smart bulbs. A bit expensive thought and not bright enough for my living room. I replaced them with 3 big LED fixtures at 4k with a dimmer switch. In the evening I use it at the bare minimum, color temp doesn't really matter at that point.

For the bedroom the old warm temps are fine, you want warm lights to go to sleep anyway.

edit: oh I remember why I disliked the phillip lights. They are a neat party trick but I hated the app to control them. If I did it again I'd make sure there's a hardwired control at the switch. Yes it means you need to get up.

>My first thought was that my LED load would be 6 lights at 14W each = 84W and the switch can handle 150W so I can put 6 lights on the switch.

This is correct. These are 14W bulbs, they are just telling you what the wattage of incandescent bulbs with the same lumens would have been because for so long "watts" meant "lumens".

If you are using a normal variable resistor-based dimmer, you might experience some other weird things like not getting the range you want and some flickering. LEDs don't quite work like a filament in a vacuum. I've done it with dimmable LEDs and it works mostly OK but not perfectly.

CO or CO2? CO will kill you and your animals. You need to find the source immediately and stop it. Most likely an appliance that uses natural gas or propane. This is not something that can be put off.

No they aren't, not any that go in a normal outlet box. Older dimmers are also a SCR chopper, but they work on leading edge of the phase which doesn't work well with LED. They also may need more minimum current draw or lower impedance than an LED fixture takes in order to operate correctly. They latch "on" starting at a particular voltage to the end of phase zero crossing.

LED+ dimmers (aka HED technology, C-L technology) have more circuitry ensuring that even slight loads will still get proper regulation. They can be reverse phase, that starts "on" and turn off at the correct duty cycle point.

Early rotary rheostats or variacs capable of controlling lighting were huge.

Lmao I also can’t stand multiple colored lights in a shared space if they’re for the same purpose. We have accent lighting that can be 4000k but all our general ceiling+ lamp lighting is 5000k. We also have task lighting that supplements the general purpose ceiling lights (under cabinet light bars), but we also prefer those set to 5000k, although I have turned them down to 3000k - 4000k before, like when it’s late and I don’t want everything on or we’re watching a movie and want minima background lighting.

5000k is blue. 4000k I get, but holy shit 5000k is like those annoying people who have super blue headlights.

The color of the sun at noon isn’t consistent. It varies slightly by time of year and the viewer’s geographical location.

Yeah the other comment about 3000k being super orange is nuts. Our whole house is 2700k and they perfectly match the OG light bulbs that I haven’t changed yet.

Daylight is 5600k.

It totally depends on the usage of your lights.

Using during the daytime? Anything 4000 and up is appropriate (that’s why it’s used in offices, warehouses, etc)

Using them at night? Anything above about 3500 is gonna look nasty and leave a bad strain on your eyes.

In a perfect world use smart ones that can change the colour temp

Have you considered smart bulbs? I have mine transition throughout the day. That way you have the best of both worlds

An alternative for more analog systems would be to get some lights like the Philips "Warm Glow" bulbs, which transition in temperature as you dim them

You’re good. I’ve put 8 of those lights on one of those dimmers.