Service/ grease or replace the flush valve assembly. The ballcock or float isn’t turning the valve off completely. EasyYouTube fix good luck

I think I would try contact cement on a couple of small wooden blocks within the field of 1 or 2 tiles (don’t overlap any grout joints) and then screw the holder to the blocks…

Clockwise if you are looking into the open thread and it's a right hand thread.

Sounds like you want a "Dryer vent cap". You can find them separately from the dryer vent kits you have been finding. Any big-box hardware store should have them (in the US at least), maybe they are in a different part of the store/aisle.

You mentioned that your current one may be glued on? If so, use a hammer and chisel/flat head screwdriver to remove the old vent and replace it with the new. Preferably you would use screws to attach the vent to the house, but if it was glued I'm wondering if there was a reason, like the vent goes through concrete and the installer couldn't be bothered to drill anchors for it.

A toilet should not have constantly dripping water. It isn't normal, and while we don't want OP to go "mad" over it it will definitely help out his water bill to find the problem.

upvote for "tongue and groove pliers" which is a perfect ,if unconventional description

FFR the rubber "jar opener" disc will help protect from damage

If the refill hose is stuck down the overflow tube too far, it will continuously siphon a trickle of water into the bowl.

Fair warning on white caulk: most of it isn't intended to hold up as a finished surface. It tends to yellow with age (and maybe uv exposure?) So if you want it to look best you should paint it. This does of course depend on the product you use. The more silicone a caulk has the harder it is to get paint to stick to it. And there may be some white caulk that doesn't yellow. I can't tell you one though!

As a post lower down says a "shoe molding" aka quarter round is the right product for this job.

Does it stop eventually? Sounds like you’ve ruled out the obvious, the flapper, and the bypass tube. I’ve seen some buildup in the void above the jets before and wonder if they’re almost clogged but allowing a dribble through. This may give you the impression that there’s a leak, but it is actually a blockage.

If it does stop eventually, I’d suspect it’s a partial blockage. Aside from taking the toilet outside and going pressure washer crazy, or adding draino while the bowl is upside down to soak, I’m not sure what the best way to clear that would be. Hope that helps!

You could skim coat it with modified thinset

You don't really care how well it adheres as it is just a shim

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I'd go horizontal too. Having said that my kid was a whale of a baby, 26lbs at 6 months. God knows how much he weighed when he got into that jumper. Money never better spent. He'd spend HOURS bouncing on that thing.... NAP....and then wake up drowsy with a few tiny bounces. Throw him a snack and hes good to go for more bouncing! Then he masters regular bouncing and advances to directional bouncing to hit the dog. Great days for you, dont miss a second unless you're napping. Long story long, we were dumb and young and we never reinforced any threshold

I personally consider it safety gear and would start budgeting to replace it - it’s actually not very difficult and can be done with 2 people. Worth the peace of mind to not have an accident. Assuming you’re a homeowner and can’t make a landlord fix, here’s a couple source videos to help you understand the scope of the job:

This Old House Always a great reference

Lowes / Werner ladder install video Straight from the horses mouth

I’ve seen the wooden attic ladders go on sale as low as $100, at Lowes. Even if you don’t want to replace it yourself, you could save up, buy on sale, and pay a handyman to come install your ladder for you.

Good luck!

That’s the “minor” diameter of the screw. If you want to be ultra precise you can look up thread measurements online based on the standard size of the hardware (eg #5 wood screw is 1/8 basic size, .085 root or minor). You don’t need anything to strong as the bolt is not supporting the weight of the desk. Only keeping the leg from moving laterally. The weight of the desk will be resting on the leg and you could just set it there with no hardware temporarily, and it would stay there.

I don’t want to. I just want to replace the exterior vent which is really broken and smashed up. Was curious if I could do it since it seems all vents come with this tube attached to them to marry to the tube attached to the dryer.

i always hate messing with those, usually i just say screw it and just buy a new entire faucet, that way i just have to deal with the undersink screws and hoses, which i know can be annoying too, but with a decent basin wrench i can be done in 20 min, instead of messing with a rusted collar for hours or days.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Louisville-Ladder-7-ft-8-in-to-10-ft-3-in-25-5-in-x-54-in-Aluminum-Attic-Ladder-with-375-lbs-Maximum-Load-Capacity-AA2510I/311317153

Command strips.

cold soaked stone/tile will create condensation when the air becomes warm/wet with a weather change. There is no "fix" other than wiping /mopping the excess

That's baseboard not skirting, and you should be caulking not grouting.

Taping & caulking a straight line is kind of a skill learned by experience. I can do it after years of practice, but I'm not sure how to tell you how to do it.

An alternative is, you could match the caulk color to the trim (white) and tape the floor.

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3rd time in 3 years?

This is an unpopular idea but the reason the caulk between a tile wall and the tub gets moldy/fails prematurely is because the tile grout is porous and the water travels down [osmosis] until it is trapped by caulk at the tub. The constant wet spot allows mold to colonize.

It has become "common sense" to caulk that interface but if you were to remove the caulk the mold would not form.

OTOH to use nothing there requires careful waterproofing at the level behind the tile. A properly constructed shower should be functional/waterproof before any tile is installed

PB Blaster. Give it time to work. Use channel locks with a strip of cloth to prevent scratching.

There are different types- this is very likely 3/8" compression.

So something like this will work:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-OD-Compression-Brass-Cap-Fitting-801039/207176342

Take these pics to your local home repair outlet store and ask for help. The dishwasher should have its own cutoff valve and that should completely turn off the water. Yours looks old. You may have to put another in upstream of the one you have and cut out the old one. There looks like enough room for that but just barely. We just replaced our dishwasher a week ago. The cutoff valve did work as advertised and there was no problem. The type you have is notoriously unreliable as it gets older. This isn't a difficult repair even if you have to replace the cutoff valve. There are lots of youtube videos that will explain this well.