Yes.

The rigid pipe is nice to have not only for the rodent issue but lint will not accumulate like it would in the flex tube.

Why are you replacing this setup?

Go to home improvement store or hardware store and ask for a cap for a under sink line and show them this picture. The user access only has 2-3 sizes and this is by far the most common for water.

Get good Teflon or equivalent, wrap opposite direction as the threading so counter clockwise (so you don't unravel as you turn) 2 wraps is sufficient. Cut 90° and lay flat as wrinkles will lead to leaks. More isn't better

Obviously turn valve off as well and if you see any calcium hit it with clr type cleaner now while you have access

Cap hand tight and check for leaks. Now you have access to a water line when you need it down the road

Yeah that was my fallback (to basically cork it similar to the disposal), but it's piped strangely.

Like one of the valves turns on the water, and the one on the off side (with the opening) controls the pressure. So I can have hot water but I get a trickle when it's turned off. So basically just need to close the opening and bada bing bada boom, hot water pressure.

Yeah, that's what quarter round and shoe moldings are for.

Dope, thanks!

If those drywall screws are into wood, what's the issue? Just tape and mud it

If the hot water is turned off through that cutoff valve then just cover the outlet port with some type of tape or cloth to keep dust out until you get another dishwasher. Many homes have plumbing roughed in with exactly that going on for decades.

Get a brass cap in the size required (3/8?) Teflontape a screw it on.

My first mistake was trying to use a push to connect end cap. Those were meant for open copper pipes.

not a threaded opening like that one.

Haha will do. Curious more than anything

GE Silicone II is flexible and can be used anywhere there's going to be moisture or movement.

My favorite is Polyseamseal. Done deal.

Have you tried hot glue? Maybe even a combination of hot glue and super glue.

It doesn’t work great for repeated tension but for the nature of a magnetic knife rack it might hold.

Hats off. I do hear that

Yeah but then it sounds like I need to do away with the existing rigid pipe and do the whole thing? Opposed to just attached a vent where the old one was? I’m kind of okay with the rigid metal pipe as it actually would keep rodents from chewing through it and getting into my garage, even with the current broken vent.

This! Grout is relatively easy to patch. Also, it’s not the weight of the knife holder plus knives. The biggest issue requiring a sturdy attachment is the strength of the magnet that requires a sturdy pull (torque) to pull knives off of it.

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If it's MDF it'll get worse very quickly. Eventually it'll break or chip. If it's a real wood, it could last but will always hold a bow. Neither will ever look new again. Go to the hardware store and get some new boards.

Eventually. You could try to strengthen it with a piece of strapping on edge screwed to the front bottom of the shelf. Or replace them with something more sturdy.

This. There are drain holes on the bottom that need to be able to flow to the inside.

I'm kidding, read the instructions

This should be the top answer. For one, that gap is too wide for caulk—you won’t be happy with the result no matter how careful you are. Shoe molding is the way, and it’s flexible enough to ride the small ups and downs of the floor. If you want a super smooth look you can do a thin bead of caulk on the top on the shoe molding where it meets the floor trim, but NOT between the shoe molding and the floor because the wall/trim will expand/contract differently than the floor. Good luck!

Same here. Worked great 3-4 years ago, but tried it again last month and it was awful. Consistency was all over the place and cracked like crazy once dry. Maybe they changed something in the formula recently?

We had the same, but on advice of our contractor had it tested for asbestos. Both the tile and mastic had asbestos and we had to hire a specialized company to remove all of it 🤦

I know, but it’s easier to make the connection in the room, rather than pushing rigid duct from the dryer through the wall and knowing what length it’s needs to be to get the dryer vent to sit flush on the wall.