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I'm not sure literally what it stands for, but it activates the dusk to dawn sensor.

I don't think so... I at least can't see any place that solar would be charging up on it.

Maybe Photovoltaic Cell?

I have a floor scraper, but this stuff is just too thick and sticky. Can't get a blade under it unless it's razor sharp.

The light just turns off. No longer is affected by any sort of motion.

Maybe power connection? What does it do when it's in PC mode

Can you post a link to one of those new-fangled piston ladders? The springs on my attic ladder always make me nervous. One of them is barely hanging on but I’m afraid to mess with it.

Oh, right, because unthreaded is stronger sheer strength than threaded. Believe it or not I worked in the fastener dept. of a hardware store not long ago. I was hoping to learn some home repair while I looked for a better job but I didn't learn much at all.

I did learn to try to steer people to a through bolt with nut/washer instead of a wood screw when hanging overhead. It's amazing the things people tried to hang from the ceiling with an eye screw...

Bean-e-doo

You’re welcome and have a happy new year.

This is what toenail trim is for

This stuff: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066982/

I 100% guarantee you it won't fall off.

I don't recall, however at the time I figured I went about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through the hardwood. As I was drilling (very slowly) my wife was watching the surface for any indication I was too close to the surface.

To get an idea of the thickness I did measure the floor thickness where our hot water baseboard heat went through the floor.

This isn’t very complicated. Perhaps look up on YouTube how to patch drywall? As others have said, you definitely need blocking across each edge. If the drywall is crumbling, as you said, why? Did it get wet? If it did, you may need to cut out the section that has lost its ability to hold a screw. If it’s the whole sheet, so be it. They’re like $15-$20 each. Not worth breaking your head over IMO

Surprised silicone adhesive didn’t work—I used regular old silicone caulking on mine. Looks exactly like your setup. Been holding up for 8 years now. Maybe clean the tile and the back of the wood with alcohol first. Then make sure it’s properly taped so everything is held in place while it’s drying.

I’d try some less volatile chemical strippers. I have some orange ‘flavored’ stripper that seemed to work on the tar style adhesive. Get a little bottle to start, try a few methods (maybe cover with plastic wrap to lessen evaporation), before giving up on this method.

I believe there are low current "signal" connections that will be made before the high current is enabled. This "signal" is used to energize the high current contacts after insertion.

This info is kinda old and things may have changed. I'll have to look at my local charging station when I get a chance.

Yep, you nailed it. I called it a 1x6 for simplicity, but yes, it does measure 4-5/8. I figured it was a 1x5 nominal (if there is such a thing) and wondered why they used such an odd dimension. I get it now. The board is just ripped to fit the frame.

I think you're saying the sides of the entry are framed with 2x4 wall studs, and there's a single 2x6 above the entry, with the 2" edge centered on the 4" faces of the studs.

Omgosh, and that's why on a separate project hanging curtain rods, I was going through drywall, finding open space behind it, but then kept hitting solid wood no matter where I drilled. I wasn't hitting vertical studs, I was hitting the horizontal window header. Which is probably a 1/2 inch back from the drywall... Thank you.

https://louisvilleladder.com/parts-accessories/hinges-kit-for-wood-attic-PK719

What if you made a mount connected to the bottom of your upper cabinet. Then hang the magnetic mount to that down to your preferred height

Disagree. Looks dated and like you're hiding a mistake. And one more crevasse that'll collect dirt over time

The manufacturer says:

Ensure all surfaces are clean, dry, and free from any previous finish. Sand the substrate with a fine 150 grade sanding paper or 150 grit sanding disk, removing all traces of dust.

They know their product - not sure why you'd do anything but what they recommend.

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Find the replacement nut online. You'll feel better if and when you destroy it breaking it loose. I just did my Moen shower cartridge (with a "lifetime warranty") which was so bad I had to cut the decorative shower handle off to break the screw loose....point is the new part was sitting on the counter so I felt better about shredding the existing part.

Then use elmers glue to bond the wood strips to the old drywall.