A quick google for “folding ladder hinge” brought up a number of results, including some that look similar to the one on your photo.

Here's an example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-8-in-Wide-Adjustable-Razor-Floor-Scraper-and-Stripper-62909Q/100067461?

Probably not what you want to hear, but check for a stamped date on the ladder assembly somewhere - I learned that they have an expiration date, and should be replaced if they are old enough.

If the hinge is completely unavailable, it could be a sign that it's a design that needs to be replaced.

Not silicone! Nothing will stick to it. Not paint or even more silicone if you need to fix it later.

You can rent or buy a floor scraper with a metal/carbide blade on it. It has a long handle like a shovel, with the flat blade on the end. It should suffice for taking that glue off the cement floor.

I had some black tarry adhesive left on my floor after removing awful vinyl tiles, and had to chip them off with a hammer and cold chisel. Took a while and left me with a dusty floor, so had to give it a coat of self-leveller.

I would have guessed that the 3m tape would work, maybe wait a few days before putting any weight on it. Or just get a magnetic block that doesn't need to be mounted. The ones that stand on their own.

Get a oscillating tool with a scraping blade onit, made for this.

DAP Alex Plus White Acrylic caulk is your solution here.

https://youtu.be/9riTpAjyfLM

I would run this idea by one of the 3D printing subreddits just to see what they say as it relates to how it may affect performance or any issues such as how some people were concerned about temperature fluctuations in these comments.

Grinding would gum up and/or burn, and there's a lot to remove. Would have to rent a specialty scraping type machine. Would rather spend less and use some elbow grease.

This is my route. Large access, but the alternative is an entire new dry wall panel i think.

This! The stuff with the red backing is pretty sticky. Another option may be carpet tape.

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Typically these enclosures only get caulked on the outside of the frame. I just spent way too much time over the last year looking into these enclosures.

CT-One adhesive

If you do end up drilling just go in the grout instead of the tile. It's easy to patch a little screw hole with more grout.

Get some 3M dual lock Velcro fastener that they use for toll passes in cars. That stuff is super sticky and hard to get off. Also it’s a hook and loop if you want to remove the golden for whatever reason.

You're local big box store will have various plastic spring loaded panels available. Easiest solution and maintains access if you need it.

I've used the Scotch extreme mount tape with success before.

Make sure the tile is clean and dry (give it a wipe with rubbing alcohol) don't go over the grout lines, cut the tape. The trick is you need to find a way to keep it under pressure for the first little while, like you'd use a clamp on glue.

Any kind of adhesive mount is always going to be iffy. That's what it really comes down to. It might hold forever, or it may fall off in an hour, a day, a month, a year, or even ten years. And there's always the chance that the adhesive will, in some way, discolor and/or damage the tile or grout.

Depending on your setup, there's an option you can consider that will hold that wood bar in place securely without damaging the tile, but it's a little bit more involved. If you have cabinets right above there, you could get two more pieces of wood (you could even buy another one of those same pieces and cut it in half), screw the ends to the ends of that board, and screw the other ends to the bottom of the cabinets. So, the knife holder would sit against the backsplash, but it would actually be hanging down from the cabinets above.

If you wanted to do something maybe fancier but more involved, you could even get something like a one-foot-square wood cutting board (any kind you like--you could even have it say "MrHL7's Kitchen" in fancy script), screw it to the bottom of the cabinet so it's hanging down in front of the backsplash, then mount the knife holder near the bottom of that cutting board.

Yep, and I expect he's not done growing, either! I was looking at the tall / wide metal frame models but kiddo got this one as a christmas gift. I'm grateful and trying to make it work, but the ones you're describing do sound appealing. Thanks for the tip. I've seen pictures of myself in the old school wheeled ones and I looked pretty happy.

I can't believe how strong this baby is... if he doesn't want his leg to bend, you're not bending it. If he doesn't want his bottle, you're not getting it into his mouth. And during diaper changes, he's a BJJ blackbelt.

Your overflow tube does not have any cracks does it? If you know 100% for sure that your flapper is not leaking and the water is not turning on in between then the only thing I could think that would cause it is a crack in the overflow tube that is just enough to do what you say is happening or it is turning on and you are not noticing it.

Vinegar will work like a charm if you have hard water (white calcium deposits) but it looks like some rust. Like someone else said, use some channel locks with light pressure and use a rag on the teeth to prevent it from scratching the chrome. Clean it really well afterwards.

You can try to find a vent that opens to cover the hole and if you need access again you can just unlatch and open. Seen this a few times before. Looks like a ceiling vent but surprise access to pipes !!! I say this because it will look more natural than a regular panel !!