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My god, its family member!

I thought I was done with this thread, but the fact that the material is spec deserves another hats-off. That was lucky, especially with lumber prices right now.

> it’s bizarre rules

Not sure if deliberate...

Ah oh right, yeah that's annoying too

Thanks a lot!

I've got a Slocomb catalog from the early 1900s, and it actually says oak. Thankfully, my coworker had some scrap pieces that fit the bill perfectly. Couple of coats of polyurethane, and done!

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If it is a hard, smooth, and shiny leather, you can use saddle soap to clean it a few times a year.

If it's softer and more grainy/textured, I'd probably use some of the other products mentioned - for my old soccer boots, I used mink oil fairly regularly to help with waterproofing and conditioning along with polish after every game to keep then looking sharp. I could usually get 2 or 3 good competitive seasons out of them with this maintenance routine.

Could be a rebuilt from original parts as well. Only OP would know.

I can't think of a better choice tbh. The contrast with the steel and the gloss black looks stunning. Cheers for the great gob man!

I think leather briefcase is the type of item that tends to be thrifted and can be found secondhand. If you’re interested in that direction

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The futur is famously aggressive, even at its mildest setting. You might just need to get a gentler safety razor

Ok so baselayers tend to come in lightweight and medium weight wool. The lighter weight is better for all year round, but less durable. The medium weight is better for colder months. And more durable because more material.

I have the Icebreaker 250 medium weight base layer and at first since I never wore wool before I found it slightly itchy but over time with washing I don’t notice it anymore. I recommend it for colored seasons.

I think a gentle detergent without enzymes that break down protein (like wool) is a good idea. Some recommend detergents with lanolin for softening, but others say the water resistance that lanolin gives is opposite what you want in a base layer, as you want the wool to absorb the sweat. I haven’t really tried either to be honest! But something to think about.

If you don’t mind used, Icebreaker is easier to find cheaper. Smartwool tends to be priced high even used, but it might keep its value better as it’s a known brand.

Merino base layers usually do fine in the washing machine. But hand washing probably does give the longest life. Especially if you have a washing machine that has an agitator like a top loading washing machine which can be harder on delicates. If so I recommend a delicates bag and wash on delicate cycle or wool cycle if there is one.

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Thanks for the tip, however, it has been solved 🥳, I have updated the post.

It is, yes. As it arrived to me, the slats were made from ratty-ass plywood. A coworker kindly donated some scrap oak he had.

Awesome. Actually exactly what I was looking for. I’d have to go with the lowest end due to their price. Wondered if that would be worth it. Thank you.

Agreed. At the very least, I intend to have the standards checked.

It wouldn't hurt to have them checked and calibrated, even for home use. I'm guessing that you don't do much that would require that kind of precision but it's good to know where they're at.

Parts.com i have used it to get dated fridge parts

Oh, and is that oak?

By moving I mean parts that are constantly getting wear and tear during operation or even standby. Like a cog in a clock or a piston in an engine.